Chile en Nogada Chef Monica Solis
Chiles en Nogada, the identity of Puebla and the mexican
By Elsie Mendez @sabormexico
Around 2004, I had the opportunity to meet the maestro Armando Mujica Perez Salazar, a Chronicler Gastronomic state of Puebla, which at that time already had more than ninety years. Even I keep this audio tape with the recorder to listen to everything that I learned from him during those six or seven hours that he dedicated to me, were the beginnings of The Flavors of Mexico, and it was my duty to talk with all those who have dedicated their lives to the research and study of the world of gastronomy, have a meal with this important, well-loved and recognised character, that the same poblanos both admired enjoying some chiles en nogada, it was the experiences and most important experiences in my career as a blogger, gastronomy, and travel.
Chile en Nogada on the Mural of Poblanos
I remember very well your words “Look, Elsie, there are as many recipes for chiles en nogada, as families in Puebla” but if you mentioned that had ingredients that if not included in the recipe then there were chiles en nogada, “sherry is an irreplaceable and must go into the preparation of the nogada or not this well-done,” commented the teacher, and I remember being in the restaurant returned to chile, saying that the nogada was not good because I did not have sherry, the manager came and told him that he had people that didn’t like that you put alcohol into your food and the teacher replied , “So then you tell them to eat something else, because the nogada chiles en nogada, it is not nogada , if you do not have sherry!” “It’s your responsibility as one of the restaurants icons of Puebla to preserve and conserve the recipe from the purest form possible”, I think that the poor manager was like an hour asking for forgiveness, as I say that, not only in Puebla, in the world of gastronomy, the teacher Mujica was a man loved and admired by all that he did, and I research the cuisine poblana.
What or battered or without weather? it was one of my first questions, and I remarked that this has always been a great dilemma, and that people wear that a lot when in reality it can go both ways because if you have the nogada sticks better to the chile. I also talk about the history of the convent and the nuns, their version was another and he invited me to come out to the Hemeroteca Nacional, where they were the chronicles that were written in his time on the making of this dish. As I commented to the teacher, who actually had charge of the preparation of this delicacy to celebrate the birthday of Agustín de Iturbide, and not his coronation, were the wives of the insurgents, and they did it in the kitchen of the convent because it was the best place to do this, the theme of the weathered is that at that time there was not the immediacy that now exists to send the information, the journalists of the time were in the convent, sending the information to the means of the step-by-step execution of the recipe, when he had been finished and ready, sent, and so came to be known in the newspapers that published the event in those days, what happened is that I don’t Iturbide, and was until his return from Mexico City, who tried the chiles in nogada, at that time they had saw that the nogada was falling and was that what capearon, but the printed recipe left without a ride.
Chile en Nogada Chef Monica Solis
Whether they were nuns or women of the insurgents, the main theme is the enjoyment of a dish that today, not only identifies Puebla, it is all of Mexico. Before only it was done in the month of August and part of September but since five years ago, the CANIRAC (Camara National of the Industry of Restaurants and Spicy Food) in Puebla has implemented two and a half months to serve this dish as the ingredients are ready from mid-July until the 30th of September. For 22 years, is celebrated the Festival del Chile en Nogada which is done by the CANIRAC (Camara National of the Industry of Restaurants and Spicy Food) Puebla and from the last 13 editions of this festival is at the state level, with the participation of cooks and restaurants in municipalities in the interior of the State. This festival has never had an international projection, so the challenge is to achieve this with the support of the different levels of government. Also this the Festival that they organize the members of Treasures of Puebla, who made a hard work for the promotion of this dish.
The chile en nogada has a great national value and international: chefs of the highest prestige what is considered a jewel for its complex development and unique flavor. What makes it so special to this dish are the ingredients that shape and the colors it projects. Poblano pepper, walnuts, pomegranate, parsley, fruit, meat, as main ingredients, that at the time of mounting it symbolize the colors of our national flag.
Chile en Nogada at the restaurant La Casita Poblana
The Chiles en Nogada are made with ingredients that are produced in the state as:
The poblano pepper is grown in Calpan, Teochimilco, San Matias Tlalancaleca, Santa Rita Tlahuapan; San Felipe Tentlancingo, San Martín Texmelucan, among others.
It is characterized by a variety of chile very dark, the darker your color will be less picoso. Traditionally they were used, poblano peppers large, smooth and without knocking, choosing those that had the tail or small tail slightly upwards for a better presentation in the dish of Chiles en Nogada.
Apple Panochera orinaría of Zacatlán, San Rita Tlahuapan, San Salvador El Verde, Domingo Arenas, San Martín texmeluca, Soltepec, Mazapiltepec, San Salvador el Seco yZaragoza.
Grenada: to the Death, Tlapanalá, Coxcatlán, Zoquitlán and Coyomeapan
Peach creole: Atlixco, San Pedro and Andrés Cholula, Huejotzingo, Domingo Arenas, San Felipe Teotlancingo, and San Martin Texmelucan.
Walnuts: Calpan, San Nicolas los Ranchos, San Salvador el Verde and San Matías Tlalancaleca.
Pear: Chiautzingo, Domingo Arenas, San Martín Texmelucan, Cuautlancingo, San Miguel Xoxtla, Zaragoza and Coronango.
Of course I highly recommend that you try as many as possible during the season and not lose to go to Puebla and enjoy them in places like: The Mural de los Poblanos (my favorite and number one on my list), La Casita Poblana, South 82, My Old Town, Tablecloths, Restaurant The ferris Wheel, Between Lands, The Burladero, Fonda Margarita, Palmyra, Mesón Sacristía of the Company, The Wineries of the Mill, Quinta Real, Casa Reyna, Enter and Bistro 702, Hotel Dream, Hotel La Purificadora, Restaurant Five in the hotel Descansería, San Leonardo, Antigua Alqueria.
And remember that in this blog we have the recipe for Chiles en Nogada that we shared the chef Liz Galicia of the restaurant is The Mural of Poblanos.