Cooking in other kitchens: why lists don’t atinan.
By: Carlos Dragonné
Over the years I’ve shared my opinion on what I think about the lists of chefs, the rankings that are made, and that, while I do not deprecate in any way the quality of cooks present, yes clearly demonstrates that 90% of these listings are more of a credit to the publirrelacionistas of the restaurants that the food that comes out of their kitchen. And look at that I have had up to discussions that border on the absurd with people that says expert but that the first changes, demonstrate their complete ignorance of the industry because they are limited to repeat like parrots that appear each year. And the reason I bring this up today, while drinking a coffee about to board a flight to one of the culinary events more interesting to the gastronomic calendar world, I began to think about those chefs who are more concerned about their kitchens by the flashes of photographers and that, therefore, many times they don’t put the attention that they deserve, although their kitchens are the best that they can test in our country. So, with all the subjectivity that this means, here are my 3 basic that are not in the lists.
Year-on-year, released at an event -all the makeshift of journalism, culinary continue as if they were the sole and most important for cover – the best according to a panel of experts, and with every year I realize how little that you know that panel of experts of food and how much we know of the lifestyle magazines. And I’m not belittling, in any way, to those who have reached the locations X or y, but I have to admit that every time I see you ignored the kitchen Said Padilla I feel that going to give me something. Said is one of those cooks who always has estaod on the stage, and has defined and maintained the concept of fine dining in Mexico city. Anyone who has been sitting in Brasserie Lipp or in Gloutonnerie has been fortunate to travel the dishes of Padilla, created from the great classical school French but modified with the talent and the knowledge that the Chef has the ingredients mexican. But, in addition, Said has in Miguel Angel Cooley one of the best accomplices to create culinary experiences that takes us. And is that Cooley, owner of both restaurants is, to my taste, the greatest connoisseur of wines that there are in the industry restaurant mexican, so that you enjoy, for example, any of the tasting menus and wine pairing that is created in these restaurants is, without a doubt, something everyone should live at least once.
If they manage to do what I’ve fought a lot with the strangers of this medium and are out of Polanco -after, of course, go to Garum, the Roma and the Condesa, you are going to bump up against the reality that there is a whole country out there. But don’t we grab a long way still. In Forests of the Hills -yes, that place that to many it gives them simple laziness to climb – is a chef who goes on a very short list of creators who have broken schemes and I have pulverized paradigms. Atzin Saints put me in front of a roasted leg of pork and I almost go running in there with such a transgression to my definitions and taste is already quite entrenched. I’ve never understood how people enjoy that part of the pork and, especially, cooked as we do in Mexico, with vinegar. But there I was, with the challenge of having to prove that, soon, it would become a staple of my cravings when I walk through the doors of Watchtower, a place that reinvents their menu every time to Saints gives you a shed creative which, I suggest, is quite often. If you add to the scenario a Shepherd of Pork Belly, a Tamal Language, and the best dessert I’ve tasted in the last few years -and look at that if something try are the desserts – and that, in previous texts, since I confessed my love for him, this place seems like a hidden treasure is, for me, the jewel in the crown. Regardless of which is “Forests”.
Now yes, take that road and go out of the city of Mexico. The first stop is Zihuatanejo, where Carmelite Coffee is one of the places that left me in doubt about what you are thinking of the state tourism offices. Do they not have realized the ambassador of the cuisine guerrero and michoacan that they have in this place? Famous among travellers to this destination, but unknown to the vast majority of what is served here, as you’ll see in a more detailed article about it, is “the kitchen of my family”, I would say Brown, the owner and head cook of this place. This space of kitchen authentic mexican recipes that, for those who don’t remember, were part of the project that got them for our kitchen the denomination-vaunted, and, at the same time, wasted – of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity, reminds us of something that the lists have forgotten and that is one of their mistakes unforgivable: the kitchen great is not defined by tablecloths long, but by the grandstanding that express the dishes. And it is here where the Carmelite Cafe is one of the great ignored of these panels of experts. I can assure you that what if they take it, Carmelita will surprise you with dishes that they thought they knew but, at the same time, they didn’t know existed.
Do All inclusive and good food? Sounds like a combination impossible, right? One of the things that I enjoy most is that I change the preconceptions and be surprised. Perhaps one of the major reasons for my surprise is that, if I travel to an all-inclusive hotel, the last thing that I hope is a gastronomical experience that re-in the most memorable of the trip. Well, if you are released to Los Cabos and have the luck of staying at the Fiesta Americana Grand Los Cabos will be able to see what she has created one of the best chefs of our country, focusing always in their kitchens and in the search of impetus to other chefs, and very little worried apapachar to the influencers or those who, lately, have been made to gather them, a profession. Gerardo Rivera spent by cuisines from around the world, such that today the new generations walk by complaining that the are treated badly because they are many hours standing in the line , and other jewels for the style. He doesn’t care about the covers prior to the awards by the same 5 friends sitting on their editorial boards. He is concerned with breaking down the stigmas that in this type of property the food is the last priority. Because for him, there will always be the first. If you have not gone, go, not what are you waiting for.
Finally, I have to tell a story without, necessarily, to tell you who I gave it to you. You already know what it says, it says sin, not the sinner. In recent days, a well-known was launched to test the menu that Rene Redzepi served in Noma Tulum, this pop-up that has many of ecstasy and strife, some for the experience, others because, as it is not free even though they say “press” are offended. Well… that is another debate. In order to that this well-known was launched in Noma but, taking the trip, obviously decided to try the new menu Jonatan Gómez-Luna. The guest with whom he travelled is someone who, due to their specific job within the culinary industry, he has been lucky enough to travel around the world and try the restaurant in terms of ranking you can imagine. Beyond envy him for that kind of work, what struck me this trip was the fact that, without neglecting at any time the quality and experience of the menu served by Redzepi, the already platicaremos in his time, this character with the palate quite trained, he closed his summary of the trip with a sentence that, personally, I was not surprised and that, sadly, should not surprise anybody but, apparently, still think that it is very strange: “Great menu Redzepi, but the truth is that I liked a lot more the Le Chique”. Now… how many times and for how many years I have said that Jonatan Gomez-Luna is the best cook in Mexico? And, more importantly, when are going to start to listen to me? I need a getaway to the southeast to discover the new menu of tasting who has created this true genius of culinary, I am told, has gone up to 34 times with a pairing extraordinary, but of one thing I am sure and I have always been when of chefs in our country is about. The stars and the rankings are lost in the Polanco, Condesa and Roma. Because the stoves that have changed the way in which our food lives and evolves, are going on at many other places. Although there are still blind not to notice. The good thing is that the blindness culinary does have a remedy. Just got to wait for that many to begin treatment.